In Shanghai, the butterfly cracker (蝴蝶酥, hú dié sū) is more than just a snack. It is a familiar part of everyday life in the city.

Golden, crisp, and shaped like a pair of delicate wings, the butterfly cracker is a staple in bakeries across Shanghai. Whether given as a gift or enjoyed as a quick snack, it is one of the most iconic examples of Haipai, or Shanghai-style Western pastry culture in the city.

Though its roots lie in France, its flavor today is unmistakably local.

Origin: From French pastry to Shanghai staple

The butterfly cracker, or palmier, originated in France in the 19th century. Its French name, palmier, means "palm tree", referring to a shape that resembles spread palm leaves.

Made from puff pastry, it relies on a technique of repeatedly folding dough with butter to create dozens, or even hundreds, of thin layers. When baked with sugar, these layers expand and caramelize, forming a crisp texture.

The pastry arrived in Shanghai in the early 20th century. It was first sold at Red House pastry shops and later adopted by establishments such as Kaisiling and Park Hotel. Over time, Shanghai bakeries adapted the recipe to suit local tastes, creating a snack that reflects the city's blend of foreign influences and homegrown preferences.

What makes it special

The hallmark of a good butterfly cracker is its texture.

Each bite should be light, flaky, and layered, offering a balance between caramelized sugar and the aroma of butter. While traditional European versions are often heavily caramelized and very sweet, Shanghai-style butterfly crackers take a more restrained approach. The sweetness is reduced to allow the quality of the butter to stand out. Modern variations have also expanded the flavor profile, including savory options such as cheese or seaweed.

How it's made

Despite its simple ingredients of flour, butter, water, and sugar, the making of a butterfly cracker is highly technical.

The secret lies in the lamination process. This involves rolling and folding the dough repeatedly to create multiple thin layers. Precision is essential. The dough must remain intact, the butter must not leak, and the layers must be even. In premium versions, the count can exceed 200 layers, resulting in a pastry that is both crisp and airy.

When and how to eat it

Butterfly crackers are typically sold fresh and are best eaten soon after purchase. They are often paired with black tea or coffee to balance the richness. Their texture and flavor are at their best within the first few days.

Where to try it in Shanghai

Park Hotel (国际饭店)

As one of the city's most well-known versions, this butterfly cracker is prized for its light texture and subtle sweetness, with an emphasis on airiness rather than a firm crunch. It gained renewed attention following the TV series Blossoms Shanghai, which sparked interest in classic local institutions.

Address: No 170 West Nanjing Road

Business hours: 8 am to 10 pm

Price: Around 30 yuan ($4.40) per bag

Harbin Food Factory (哈尔滨食品厂)

Founded in 1936, this bakery offers a classic crisp style. Its butterfly crackers are flatter, with clearly defined layers and a firmer bite. The sweetness is slightly more pronounced, and the smaller sizes make them easy to eat in one or two bites. Its techniques are recognized as part of Shanghai's municipal intangible cultural heritage.

Address: No 536 East Nanjing Road

Business hours: 9 am to 6 pm

Price: Around 50 yuan per bag

Lao Xiang Zhai (老香斋)

This version is known for a looser, more crumbly texture. By reducing the amount of water used, the bakery produces butterfly crackers with a longer shelf life, making them suitable for travel or gifting.

Freshly made butterfly crackers from Lao Xiang Zhai. [Photo/WeChat account of the brand]

Address: No 720 East Nanjing Road

Business hours: 9:30 am to 10 pm

Price: Sold by weight, about 110 yuan to 130 yuan per 500 grams

Lu Bo Lang (绿波廊)

Located in the heart of Yuyuan Garden Malls, this restaurant offers a bite-sized version tailored for visitors. These butterfly crackers drew wider attention earlier this year when British Prime Minister Keir Starmer was seen purchasing them during a visit.

Address: No 115 Yuyuan Road

Business hours: 11 am to 2 pm, 5 pm to 8:30 pm

Price: Around 48 yuan per box

 

Sources: WeChat accounts of Huangpu district, Shanghai Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center