Scallion oil noodles (葱油拌面, cōng yóu bàn miàn) are a cherished comfort food in Shanghai. Simple yet rich in flavor, the dish features noodles tossed in fragrant scallion oil and soy sauce, offering a quintessential taste of Shanghai home-style cooking.

 

Origins: From ancient China to Shanghai's streets

Scallion oil noodles trace their roots to the Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties, when cold noodle dishes like cold tossed noodles (冷淘面, lěng táo miàn) were popular. The modern version of the dish, as it is known today, was created in 1889 by Chen Youzhi, a snack master at the City God Temple in Shanghai. By blending culinary traditions from both the South and North, Chen developed a dish that would become a signature of Shanghai's local cuisine.

In the early 20th century, as Shanghai underwent rapid urbanization, the dish's simplicity and flavor helped it gain widespread popularity.

 

What makes it special

The key to great scallion oil noodles lies in the balance between freshly cooked noodles, aromatic scallion oil, and soy sauce. The scallion oil is made by gently frying small, fresh scallions in hot oil until they become dry, golden, and fragrant. Fresh-cut noodles are typically used, as they are chewy and smooth enough to hold the scallion oil well.

In Shanghai, both light soy sauce (生抽, shēng chōu) and dark soy sauce (老抽, lǎo chōu) are used. The light soy sauce imparts a saltier taste, while the dark soy sauce gives the noodles a deeper color. Together, the two create a harmonious balance of taste and appearance.

 

How to best enjoy it

When served, the first step is to mix the noodles. Use your chopsticks to lift the noodles from the center several times until they loosen and are coated evenly with the scallion oil and soy sauce.

While the dish can be enjoyed on its own, some establishments add extra toppings like dried shrimp (开洋, kāi yáng) for more flavor.

 

Where to try it in Shanghai

Huxi Laolongtang Noodle Shop

(沪西老弄堂面馆)

For over 40 years, this humble noodle shop has been serving some of Shanghai's best scallion oil noodles. The dish is celebrated for its fragrant scallion oil, perfectly chewy noodles, and generous portions of dried shrimp. The nostalgic, old-school atmosphere makes it a favorite among locals and tourists alike.

• Address: Room 101, No 685 Dingxi Road
• Business hours: 10 am to 2:30 pm, 3:30 pm to 8:30 pm
• Price: 7 yuan (about $1) per serving

 

Longtang Wonton House

(弄堂小馄饨食府)

Founded in 1980, Longtang Wonton House has been serving its signature scallion oil noodles for more than 40 years. The dish is complemented by a comforting soup, making it a go-to for those craving a quick and satisfying meal. Diners can also customize their dish by adding extra toppings like braised pork chops or a fried egg, making it a truly fulfilling meal.

• Address: No 729 Weihai Road
• Business hours: 6:30 am to 6:00 pm
• Price: 8 yuan per serving

 

Cang Lang Ting

(沧浪亭)

Known for its refined take on the classic, Cang Lang Ting adds dried shrimp to its scallion oil noodles, giving it a deliciously rich umami flavor. The noodles here are cooked to perfection, with the perfect bite and a satisfying chew. It's a must-try for those looking for a traditional yet elevated version of this dish.

• Address: No 8 Sinan Road
• Business hours: 7:30 am to 8:30 pm
• Price: 25 yuan per serving

Jianguo 328 Restaurant

(建国328小馆)

A bit more upscale than the typical noodle shop, Jianguo 328 offers a well-known version of scallion oil noodles. The noodles are coated in rich scallion oil, and the addition of dried shrimp gives the dish a richer flavor.

• Address: No 328 West Jianguo Road
• Business hours: 11 am to 2 pm, 5 pm to 9 pm
• Price: 28 yuan per serving

 

How to make scallion oil noodles at home

Making scallion oil noodles at home is straightforward, but it requires attention to detail, especially when preparing the scallion oil.

The cooking process is as follows:

1. Prepare the scallion oil

Wash and trim small scallions. Cut them into 2-centimeter segments. Pat dry with paper towels to prevent splattering. Heat the oil in a pan over high heat. Once hot, add the scallions and lower the heat to low. Slowly fry the scallions until golden and crispy, releasing their fragrant aroma.

- If dried shrimp and sugar are to be used, add light soy sauce, dried shrimp, and sugar to the pan, and continue frying until the sugar dissolves.

- If dried shrimp and sugar are not used, simply fry the scallions until golden, then remove the oil from the heat.

2. Cook the noodles

Boil the noodles in a large pot of water until al dente. Drain and set aside.

3. Assemble the dish

- If you added dried shrimp and sugar, toss the noodles with the fragrant scallion oil and finish with freshly chopped scallions.

- If you didn't use dried shrimp or sugar, in the same pan, add light soy sauce and dark soy sauce. Heat briefly to remove any raw, beany taste, then pour the sauce over the noodles and toss with the scallion oil.

4. Serve

Toss everything together and serve hot. Feel free to add extra toppings to customize your dish.

 

Sources: General Office of the Shanghai Municipal People's Government, Huangpu, Jing'an, Changning, and Xuhui district governments