Shanghai is home to more than 9,500 cafes, the most of any city in the world. Coffee has become part of its cultural identity, yet the city's ties to the drink stretch back more than 170 years.

In 1853, British pharmacist J. Lewellyn introduced coffee to Shanghai, selling it from his pharmacy on Huayuan Alley, now East Nanjing Road. Locals, puzzled by the bitter and sour taste of the brown liquid, jokingly dubbed it "cough medicine".

A turning point came in 1958 with the launch of Shanghai Brand Coffee, China's first homegrown coffee brand. Its striking red tin with a golden logo soon became a household symbol of modern living. Families often displayed the empty cans in glass cabinets long after the coffee was gone to show off their modern life. For the next two decades, the brand reigned across the country, cementing Shanghai's reputation as China's coffee capital.

At a time when drinking coffee was considered a luxury, the Shanghai Coffee Factory introduced a creative "coffee tea". Made from leftover coffee grounds and sugar pressed into small cubes, it was simple yet affordable, giving ordinary families a small taste of indulgence.

The factory also produced another beloved staple, Lacovo malted milk powder. In an era when fresh milk was scarce, Lacovo became a treasured item, often reserved for guests or children. Many youngsters preferred to eat it dry, letting the sweet, crunchy granules melt in their mouths, a memory that still lingers warmly among generations of Shanghainese.

Today, Shanghai Brand Coffee lives on at its flagship store on Middle Huaihai Road, once affectionately known as "coffee street". Its retro green-and-brown storefront nods to the past, while the interior reflects a sleek, contemporary style.

The menu blends heritage with creativity, offering unique drinks such as Latte with Lacovo, Osmanthus Latte, Black Sesame Latte, Pistachio Latte, and the whimsically named "Hope You Get Rich" Latte. The Lacovo Latte remains the star, evoking the taste of the malted milk powder that once sweetened countless childhood memories.

The shop also offers a range of Shanghai-themed gifts, from butter butterfly pastries to scallion oil sauce and rose wine, as well as a revival of the classic 1958 coffee tin.

If you go

Address: No 642 Middle Huaihai Road, Huangpu district

Business hours: Daily, 10 am to 7:30 pm

Source: Official WeChat account of the publicity department of the CPC Huangpu district committee at "shhuangpu"